My initial plan was to pull the motor and do a timing belt job, fix my ACD system as well as relocate the pump to the trunk and also inspect the internals to see if there were any damage done by "my lack of care and harsh driving". I also found some metal shavings in my oil or at least thought I saw some metal shavings in my oil when I drained the motor. It was all going well when I ran into snag after snag.
When prepping to remove the transmission the drive-shafts wouldn't come out because the knuckles were stuck. Further investigation I found that the control arm bushings, tire rods and front struts were all seized on to the front knuckles. The torch I bought apparently wasn't strong enough and rather risk deforming the knuckles to the point where they would no longer be straight I just cut them and went on my way. With that done I was able to remove my front struts and knuckles without a problem. OK.
The engine and trans are out? Yes at this point the motor and transmission are out of the car and I'm able to get working on that... NOT! With the motor and transmission I decided to order parts like a new ACT HS Pressure Plate, OEM Timing Belt Kit, OEM water pump, and a lot of new nuts and bolts to replace the nasty old rusty ones. At this point I also opted to order some new Whiteline Front Control Arm Bushings, Steering Rack Bushings, Roll Center Correction Kit, and their Anti-Lift Caster Solid Bushings. When it came time to take the LCA's (Lower Control Arms) off the right side just wouldn't. I also found out that I couldn't just lower my sub-frame like I had planned because the 19mm nut that holds it in place was seized onto the stud. I think 90% of people would have given up at this point... So I came up with an idea to split the nut with a nut spliter; it worked. So I proceed to clean the stud off and grease it up so it won't corrode again and it forced me to order all new nuts and bolts for the sub-frame and LCA's. Great so i can lower my sub-frame and install my Whiteline stuff... NOPE! The passenger side LCA bolt was seized in place and wouldn't move. I had to then set up a 6ft long extension arm on my 1/2" ratchet and apply at least 200lbs on it. That equated to 1200lbs-ft of torque but still corrosion won. But then after a few more tries the bolt started to turn. Good sign? Then it stopped and just spun in place.
Fed up and completely frustrated at this point I took my angle grinder and cut my subframe open. There I found the nut cage that holds the nut for the LCA bolt in palce broke off. Then proceeded to use my Dremel to cut the metal around the head of the bolt. I then pryed the head while turning the bolt out. What I found puzzled me. The bolt was completely seized onto the sleeve of the bushing and what really was happening was I ripped the rubber bushing and that was the only way the sleeve and bolt could turn out.
I finally got my sub-frame from Mitsubishiparts.net and got to installing everything back in. At this point I had my buddy Derrick over at Prospect Exxon ship my LCA's out along with the Whiteline Bushings to his machinist to press the old ones out and then the new ones in. Excellent job BTW. I then reinstalled everything and was able to put a new 19mm nut and clean up that chassis stud without having to tack weld it into place like many others have suggested.
While all that was going on I was slowly working on my motor to get the timing belt on and water pump installed while having the oil pan off to inspect the bearings. I only looked at the crank carrier bearings because since that was the lowest point of the motor the chances of the metal filled oil going there would be higher than way up top in the head.
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